Why Lviv?

The truth is, central Europe has been more than "discovered" - it's packed with tourists. Previous borders of the European Union - and the domain of budget airlines - have shifted, and so have the names of the "undiscovered".

More significantly, Ukraine has loosened its immigration rules. Last northern summer, EU citizens could travel visa-free, for the semi-bizarre reason that Kiev was hosting the Eurovision Song Contest - and now the offer has been extended indefinitely. Australians still require a visa, but it's easier to get than before. You don't need to pay in advance for hotel rooms - only prove that you have reserved them. In a Kafkaesque flourish, there's no obligation to use the rooms you reserve.

In a world where all cities seem increasingly similar, and getting good service feels like a tourist's basic right, finding yourself in a slightly confronting reality can be like taking a deep breath. Not everywhere is the same.

Visiting a beautiful European city with few tourists is an experience that spoils you. Once you've done it, it is very hard to return to the crammed streets without feeling that something essential is missing.

A city such as Lviv can only remain in its present state for a year or two longer. My advice is to see it as soon as possible. Prague will still be the same in a few years. Lviv won't.